Saturday, April 9, 2011

Don't stir the pot

With spring well upon us, I know we're supposed to be looking forward to fresh and vibrant tastes of Spring and Summer, but this is also an awkward part of the year where it's too early to enjoy much fresh regional produce yet. Maybe it's the Scorpio in me, but I lean towards the earthy end of the food spectrum all year long, and today I am compelled to write about mushrooms, and share my secret for forcing them to not be mushy when they reach the dinner table!

I fell in love with mushrooms all over again in Ukraine. Wild mushrooms abound in the lush wooded areas that dominate much of the landscape, and many Ukrainians are regional mycologists. It is not unusual to stop along the highway to buy a bucket of freshly foraged mushrooms from a babushka, or be served a huge helping of sauteed wild mushrooms with dinner.

Called "hryby" in Ukrainian, "greeby" in Russian, wild mushrooms are quite common, adding lovely earthy taste and meaty texture to soups, sides, and sautés. I felt gluttonous eating wild mushrooms so often, since in the US wild mushrooms are an expensive delicacy, often at over $10 per pound. But in Ukraine, mushrooms are comparable in price to most other common vegetables.

Here's how you can give hum-drum cheap-o white button mushrooms the texture of wild mushrooms: meaty, chewy, not soggy. The secret to cooking delicious dark golden and meaty mushrooms is not to stir the pot! This takes an amazing amount of restraint. Why is it so alluring to stir and tinker with whatever is on the stove top? When it comes to mushrooms, try this technique of inaction, and I bet you will be pleased.

The whole idea is that raw mushrooms have moisture locked inside. If they are rotated while cooking, the moisture spills out and then steams the meat, making them mushy. By not moving them around, the steam stays more locked inside and the outsides can actually dry out and become golden.
  1. Chose relatively clean small and medium whole white mushrooms, not pre-sliced.
  2. When cleaning your mushrooms, try to use as little water as possible unless they are really dirty. Then make sure to leave them to dry for a bit on a paper towel.
  3. Cut the end of the stems off, and then slice mushrooms into quarters (this is important!).
  4. Heat up cast iron skillet on medium heat.
  5. Add 1 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs vegetable or coconut oil to mix (the butter adds flavor, and the oil keeps the butter from burning). Coat the skillet.
  6. Add the mushrooms in a single layer on a cut side, but do not toss them around!
  7. Leave alone for 4 to 5 minutes (set a timer and find something else to do!) until bottom side is a nice dark golden.
  8. Turn them each 90 degrees onto the other cut side and cook another 4 to 5 minutes (this is why you cut them in quarters!)
  9. Optional: sprinkle with salt and garlic powder.
  10. Serve immediately.
  11. Goes well with meat, or serve as a simple side dish on their own.

Yum! Look for dark golden color on the cooked side. I developed the quarter-cut technique after taking this picture which helps to prevent over-stirring.

Enjoy! Nasdirov!

4 comments:

  1. Yum ! How about the addition of a little sliced onion or would that make the mushrooms more steamy ? xx

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wonderful post, Rach! Do you turn each mushroom with tongs? Or are you just really careful with a spatula?

    ReplyDelete
  3. RE onions: I would cook them separately to avoid over-steaming, yes!
    RE Tools: I just use my spatula to "tip" each one over, but I would use tongs if I had'm!

    ReplyDelete
  4. yay rach!--i saw your post on facebook and popped over here. so funny cause i cooked mushrooms tonight and kept remembering the julia child advice from the movie Julie and Julia: "Don't crowd the mushrooms!" Man, mushrooms are picky. anyway, I have to say I was a bad girl and did stir them, though right beforehand i was kind of scratching my head wondering what i should do to get that other quarter browned. They went into a veggie pot pie and were pretty good, but next time i will follow your advice! Thanks and I look forward to reading future posts!

    ReplyDelete